The Journal

Japan's hot springs span a range that would alarm a chemist. Waters that reach 105 degrees Celsius. Springs with pH levels close to vinegar. A natural onsen at 2,430 metres above sea level. And at the other end, silky alkaline pools so gentle they leave your skin feeling like something was added rather than removed. Here is what the extremes actually look and feel like.

Japan's tattoo policy at onsen facilities is more nuanced than most travel blogs suggest. Some of the country's best springs openly welcome tattoos. Others have formal prohibitions. Many are somewhere in between, and a polite conversation or a quick check on SpringsAtlas can make the difference between a great soak and an awkward moment at the door. Here is what you actually need to know.

Some of Japan's most memorable hot spring experiences are completely free. From a riverbed bath where the water bubbles up through sand, to a thousand-year-old community bathhouse in a mountain village, here are nine springs you can soak in without spending a single yen on entry.

Rotenburo means outdoor hot spring bathing, and it is one of Japan's most beloved traditions. Whether a rock pool beneath mountain pines or a terrace overlooking the river, rotenburo offers a connection to nature that indoor baths simply cannot match. I have been visiting them for years, and the pull never fades.

I went to Hokkaido for the first time in November 2024 with both our families. I did not speak a word of Japanese, I have a tattoo, and somehow I still had the most memorable onsen experience of my life. Here is everything I learned, including what to do when the staff mime at you with a skin patch.